Freediving is a minimal sport. The bare minimum you need is togs.
Using the right equipment will help you stay under for longer and go further. If your wetsuit slows you down or the fins do not give enough thrust you will have to push harder to swim the same distance, will get tired sooner and won't enjoy it as much.
The bottom line is that you need to be warm and comfortable in the pool, lake or sea. This part of the website explains what gear you may need for what activities and where to get it.
Budget
There are two schools of thought when it comes to freediving gear:
- get something cheap to see if you like this freediving thing and then throw it away if you don't, or
- get what works well and then sell it at a small loss if you don't want to continue
Low-end or not very suitable gear makes you uncomfortable and inefficient. It makes you feel like the training is too hard when in fact it is your gear letting you down.
Pool training
There are 3 main types of freediving we do in the pool: static breath holds (STA), swimming without fins (DNF) and swimming with fins (DYN). Those who have done it for a while tend to have a slightly different set up for each discipline, but it's OK to have a single kit for them all to begin with:
- 2mm - 5mm wetsuit that does not let in water through the neck when you swim and has no leg padding
- mask and snorkel or goggles and a nose clip (matter of personal preference)
- freediving or spearfishing fins
- a neck weight and maybe a weight belt
Static breath holds or statics for short, or STA in the comps lingo, are all about relaxation, comfort and being still. All you need is a nose clip and any type of 3mm - 7mm wetsuit to be warm.
Swimming with no fins or DNF can be done in togs, but most of us use a 2mm wetsuit. You will also need goggles, a nose clip, a neck weight and some may need a weight belt to keep you underwater in a streamlined position.
Dynamics or DYN for short is swimming with fins. You will need everything you use for DNF, plus fins. Little swimming or scuba thins do not produce enough thrust underwater. You will get the best results from using special freediving or spearfishing fins.
A thin smooth skin wetsuit is desirable for reduced resistance and improved hydrodynamics for both DYN and DNF. Typically, the thinner the better. A thinner wetsuit provides better range of motion and less weight is required. A second hand triathlon wetsuit is a great place to start.
Depth training
We train in lake Pupuke down to 50m deep and sometimes in lake Taupo for as deep as one can go.
Depth training presents different challenges compared to pool training: the water temperature fluctuates with depth and you have to fight gravity on the way up. Some of us use the same wetsuit for pool and lake, some have a warmer one for depth.
Most AFC members use a 3mm or 5mm open cell wetsuit. Keeping warm is important. A dive will not be enjoyable if you are shivering on the surface while trying to relax.
Every AFC member doing depth training has to use a special lanyard and a head torch. You will get both from the club after your lake induction.
Two most important items
If you look at what gear seasoned AFC members use for training it will be all over the place, except for two things:
- good fins (carbon or composite)
- a neck weight
It's a tough call if you want to invest into good fins right away or try plastic ones first. Composite or carbon fins will take you further and make training more enjoyable.
A neck weight is a must-have and does not cost much at all. You can even make one yourself. Get one now.
Where to start
Start with what you have.
Fins, mask, snorkel, a wetsuit and a weight belt is the bare minimum you need. It's OK if your equipment is not in the top condition or was not made for freediving. You will see what other club members are using during our training sessions to get an idea what may work for you. Feel free to ask them for advice or drop your questions to our Facebook page.